The alternative method is to wait until your hear noise from the
wear sensoron the pad.However some parts do not have wear sensor clips,i.e
noisemaking clips that are mounted on the brakepad to tell you when
the pads need to be changed.If you hear a screeching sound when you
apply the brakes, then you are due for a brake change.(If the sound
is more like a metal rasp or grinding sound,then you’ve already
damaged your rotors and need to fix the brakes immediately.)
STEP ONE : Have the following parts available before
you start the brake change
1)Power stop brake pads such as the Evolution ceramic pads,2)Power
stop cross-drilled or slotted rotors3) A bottle of DOT 3 or 4 brake
fluid as recommended by your owner’s manual 4)brake pad grease
5) a c –clamp.You should also have a car jack and jack stands
STEP TWO : Block the rear wheels so the car won’t
roll once you jack it up.Put the car in park and set the parking
brake firmly.
STEP THREE : Before jacking the car up of the
ground,loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break them
free.Work them off just enough until they loosen their resistance
and become easy to turn with the tire iron.Raise the car and support
with safe jack stands under flat spots on the frame.Usually the
frame support area is immediately to the rear of the front wheels.
CAUTION: Always use jack stands.Never attempt
to work on an elevated vehicle held in place only by a hydraulic
jack.
STEP FOUR: Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.It
is best to work on one wheel at a time,leaving the other side intact
as a point of reference.As a safety precaution roll the wheel/tire
assembly under the front-center of the car,between the jack stands,and
set it down beneath the engine’s K-member.In the event of
the faulty jack stand.
STEP FIVE : Review the brake components.A disc
brake assembly is composed of the following elements:a caliper,two
brake pads,and a rotor.The caliper works on pressurized brake fluid
through a piston in the caliper.The caliper has a fixed part bolted
to the spindle knuckle and a slide part that holds the brake pads.The
sliding part is attached to the fixed part with the two bolts.These
bolts usually have dust boots.When the brakes are applied,the caliper
piston squeezes the pads against the rotor creating friction.The
kinetic energy of the vehicle is converted in to heat as the vehicle
slows down.
STEP SIX : NOTE:If ypu are not replacing or turning
down the rotor ,then install 2 lug nuts backwards to hold the rotor
in place when removing the caliper(fig. 2).Remove the two bolts
that holds the two parts of the caliper together(fig.3).Gently slide
it out and away from the rotor .Hang the calieper inside the wheel
well using a coat hanger ,so that the hose is not stressed.Do not
let the caliper dangle from the brake hose line.Inspect the inside
of the caliper and remove the brake pads.Remove the two remaining
bolts that holds the caliper slide to knuckle.Use a wire brush to
clean rust from the rails where the pad con
STEP SEVEN : Remove the rotor.Sometimes the rotor
rust will make it bind and you will need to use a mallet to loosen
it.Tap both the front and back side alternating left and right,top
and bottom of rotor.
STEP EIGHT: Move the piston back to its “full
open” position.The piston has extended as the pad material
wears.With new thicker pads,we must return the piston back inside
the caliper body to give the thicker pads room for installation.First
crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper to allow brake fluid
to be relieved. Place a container under the caliper to collect the
fluid.Get a large C-clamp,place the used brake pad over the face
of the piston to protect the surface from marring and work it back
that way .As you turn the handle on the clamp ,it will increase
pressure on the piston,until it becomes flush with the surrounding
metal.Then loosen and remove the C-clamp.close the bleeder screw
for now.If you can not open the bleeder screw then push the C-clamp
in slowly to prevent unsafe back pressure and damageto the ABS modulator,brake
valving or master cylinder.It may be necessary to drain some fluid
from the master cylinder reservoir.
NOTE:many rear brakes pistons can not be retracted
with a C-clamp as they screw in and out This type of rear brake
piston will have two recessed notches where you can use a set of
needle nose pliers to retract the piston.
STEP NINE: Check and replace all hardware as needed.Improper
hardware can lead to noise or poor brake pad performance.Clean the
caliper rails or hardware slades where the pads makes contact.Clean
the hub mating surface with the wire brush.Rust or debris on the
hub can cause rotor runout and lead to wheel vibration.
STEP TEN : Resurface the rotor or replace the
rotor.Most auto retailer stores provide rotor resurfacing after
machining,use a 120 grit sandpaper on rotor in a light circular
motion to give non – directional finish. Clean the rotor with
the mild soap and wipe clean with lint-free cloth.Do not use petroleum
based cleaners.
STEP ELEVEN: Install the new rotor and remount
caliper bracket(not the piston part)to the spindle knuckle arm.Use
brake grease to lubricate the brake pads and slide .put the grease
on the back of the pad (not on the friction material).The lubricant
goes between the plate and the piston or caliper back .Don’t
overlook this.If ypu don’t do it ,you may get brake noise
when you apply the brakes.Also lubricate the caliper rails where
the pad contact the caliper.
NOTE : when you will install the new rotors,
it is recommended that you check rotor runout.Rotor runout can cause
brake pulsation.First tighten the stud nuts to the manufacturer
specification using spacers as required .Mount a dial indicater
and rotate the rotor while measureing the runout.Runout should be
less than +/-.001 inch.If runout exceeds this then mark the high
spot ,remove the rotor and index it two studs and check to see if
the high spot moved.Painted rotors hats can cause runout issues
if the paint is on the hub mounting surface.Make sure that the hub
and rotor mounting surface is clean.
STEP TWELVE: Reinstall the brake pads and make
sure that they are pressed to the rotor.Slide the piston part of
the caliper over the pads .Bolt the piston part of the caliper to
caliper bracket.
STEP THIRTEEN: Bleed the brakes to remove air
from the brake line (see how to bleed brakes).
Check the master cylinder reservoir and replace brake fluid to the
MAX line.Do not overfill the reservoir.Pump the brakes several times
to seat the brake pads to the rotor and check the reservoir onr
more time.
STEP FOURTEEN : Replace the wheel and bolts.Drop
the car to the ground to finish tightening the bolts to the manufacturer’s
specified bolt torque.Alternate tightening sequence by going to
the opposite side of the hub.A torque gun is not recommended
IMPORTANT :BREAK IN NEW FRICTION USING THE
PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS.PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT
ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical ! if you do not break in pad
properly ,it can result in break pedal pulsation and thermal shock
to the rotor causing stress cracks.Break in the pads as follow:
5 aggressive stop at 50 mph to 10 mph without letting the brakes
cool and try not to come to a complete stop.Then do 5 moderate stop
at 30 mph to 5 mph and do not let the rotors cool after each brake
application .You should expect to smell some burning resin.Finally
drive around a little and let the brakes cool down.
For the first 100 miles,avoid towing or hauling loads while the
pad completes the resin cure.
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